With the help of a cut out earphone connected directly to the output of the pre-amplifier I established that it was working fine I could turn the volume up and down and I could hear, weak, but good enough, resopnse in the earphone. That seemed a little too much for a stupid audio! (not that I don't have them, but come on, Insignia or Advent, freakin' $100 and a whole board to the trash just because if what it turned to be a $1 audio chip?!)Įxamining the board I had learned that the audio pre-processing was totally made with RENESAS technology chips: R2S15903sp (a long rectangular chip) was the pre-processor and pre-amplifier and R2S15102NP, a small square chip, is the final amplifier there's a separate amplifier for the headphones, didn't take its number. This has helped me learn that ADVENT is the actual manufactrer of the TV and that the board in reference costed around $100.
I remember I had found the board by googing for the part number that was stamped there and to my greatest surprised had found it in the CircuitCity partsearch website, along with other boards, under the ADVENT brand. Unfortunately I do not remember what was it, but it's written on a few stamps that can be found on the board itself - the lower of the two boards on the left side of the TV when you take the cover off and look at it. Here's the quick and easy solution to this and possibly nearly all other audio problems with this TV: you can replace the whole audio /HF video module. Replacing them fixes the problem and a temporary workaround to make the TV come on appears to be - hold on - heating it on the back with a dryier!įirst off, I found out that I could get proper sound if I connect earphones it was the main speakers that were quiet. Now, before I get to the sound, I want to mention for those of you whose TVs do not blow the fuse when connected, but still can't power: there is another, apparently more popular and well known issue with this TV refusing to turn on it's due to cheap electrolytic capacitors in the power module going bad. I could see picture, switch inputs, navigate menus and everything. SO I went to RadioShack and bought a good 4A / 200V rectifier it wasn't the same shape, but it was apparently powerful and it was possible to mount on the heat sink of the older rectifier it took a little extra work with the solder to connect the new rectifier and a longer screw, but eventually it costed about $2.50 and 1 hour, including going back and forth to the nearest RadioShack. The rectifier had US8K 80R 2566 on it and by now I don't even remember if I had managed to find its specs somehere.probably yes, but I was too impatient to make it work. In my case it turned out that one of the diodes in the big recitifier in the power block has short-circuited - that was easily seen with a probe. More specifically, it was blowing the 4A fuse the moment it got connected to power and a quick test with an ampermeter showed it was ready to go way above 4A. Well I don't know how did it come that I am only blogging about hardware service and repairs when my major specialty and line of business is actually 's an interesting topic.to which I'll return sometime later.įor the time being, I became an owner of an Insignia NS-LCD32 32'' LCD TV, which wasn't powering on at all.